Tasty Grape #4: Chardonnay
There are thousands of different grape varieties, and every year more are added through new crossings or (re)discoveries. Which grapes should you really get to know? In the ‘tasty grape’ series, I share my favourites, along with wine tips. This time: chardonnay. The grape also known as ‘the slut among grapes.’
Er, pardon me, slut?
Don’t shoot the messenger, I didn’t make it up myself—let me explain! The disrespectful nickname comes from the grape’s versatility, which makes winemakers around the world want to work with it. That’s because chardonnay doesn’t have a pronounced flavour of its own, but happily takes on the character the winemaker wants to give it. Hence: a willing slut. But there are several other reasons why chardonnay is so popular.
The Queen of Burgundy
The grape is a true celebrity: all the great white wines of Burgundy, chardonnay’s birthplace, are made from 100% chardonnay. These have long been the most expensive and sought-after white wines in the world. So it’s hardly surprising that winemakers elsewhere started working with this white grape too. Just as important is the fact that the grape isn’t particularly fussy about soil and doesn’t demand a very specific climate; chardonnay thrives in both cooler and warmer climates. That’s good news not only for winemakers, but for wine drinkers too! It means we can find many different Chardonnays from all over the world. Delicious!
Cool versus warm
Depending on where the wine comes from, you can expect a particular style and flavour. A cool climate produces high acidity and aromas of lemon and green apple. As it gets warmer, the wines become less distinctly fresh, and yellow apple, grapefruit and pear enter the picture. Warmer still, and the acidity drops further while tropical fruit takes over: think melon, guava, pineapple, peach and mango. Saying you don’t like Chardonnay is more or less the same as saying you don’t like vegetables; after all, there are so many different flavours that there’s bound to be one you do enjoy—provided you like (white) wine, of course.
If you like oak
Another important flavour influence is fermentation and/or ageing in wooden barrels. You could fill books on the subject, because the type of wood, the construction of the barrel and its dimensions offer winemakers an endless range of choices. I won’t bore you with the details, though, because I’m rather in the mood for a glass of wine—and since I’m the more serious sort, I won’t open it until I’ve finished this piece.
Comeback kid
But one more thing: with Chardonnay’s unprecedented popularity, it’s almost hard to imagine that there was a time when people answered the question of which wine they wanted to order with the rather arrogant acronym A.B.C. ‘Anything But Chardonnay!’ It was all the fault of the eighties and nineties, when not only shoulder pads and hair crimping were completely en vogue, but also full-bodied, rich and often heavily oak-aged Chardonnay. And just as happened with crimped hair, the same happened with those excessively thick blockbusters of wines. They needed freshening up. Modern Chardonnays stand out for their balance, fruity flavour and freshness. Chadonnay, yes please!
Californian Chardonnays
Outside Europe, you’ll find plenty of chardonnay in California. Where Burgundy is all about subtle power, purity and finesse, Californian Chardonnay is often a sturdy, voluptuous wine with a pronounced flavour of vanilla, plenty of tropical fruit and a high alcohol content. That comes from the clear influence of oak barrels (or, in cheaper wines, oak staves or even wood chips!) in which the wines mature. The two best-known areas are Napa Valley and Sanoma. The former is richer in every respect, including the style of the wine. Californian wines are never cheap, but they’re certainly well worth it—especially if you like your Chardonnay big and bold.
From Down Under
Australia is also known for its Chardonnay. The classic Australian style is like many wines from this country: powerful, full-bodied, high in alcohol and heavily oak-aged. But you can also find Chardonnay that hasn’t been aged in oak (fortunately). The label will say ‘Unoaked Chardonnay’. Instead of a buttery, vanilla-like character, citrus fruit takes centre stage. ‘A little further on’ in New Zealand, fresh Chardonnays are made too.
Chile and Argentina
And what about Argentina and Chile! Both countries mainly produce red wine, but you’ll find white wine there too—and yes, you guessed it: Chardonnay plays an important role. In different styles and ranging from basic to premium. And unlike Californian Chardonnays, even the premium wines are affordable! The same goes for the delicious, tropical Chardonnays from South Africa.
What should we eat with it?
Thanks to its diversity of styles, Chardonnay goes very well with food. In short: taut, fresh styles are delicious with oysters and other seafood delicacies, while fuller styles suit rich dishes. The medium style pairs well with grilled fish dishes.
Serving you: three knockout wines, increasing in price.
Errázuriz Estate Series Chardonnay, Chile, € 9.99
I love Chilean wines. And actually, I think all Errázuriz wines are excellent. Take this one, for example. A delicious crowd-pleaser. Balance is the key thing here. The style is fresh rather than tropical—and that price, too: just as appealing as the wine itself. For five euros more, you can get a richer Errázuriz, the Max Reserva Chardonnay. Big Max is a true food wine, full-bodied and creamy, but you can also simply drink the Estate Series Chardonnay on its own, straight from the glass, without eating anything alongside it. If you do want food, go for a plate of noodles with grilled vegetables, a mildly spicy rice dish with fried tempeh, or crispy fish or chicken tortillas piled high with guacamole and sour cream. Mmm!
Salentein Barrel Selection Chardonnay, 2018, Argentina, €15.95
If Maxima were a wine, this would come pretty close. This Chardonnay is a pleasantly curvy size 38. Slim with soft curves. Juicy and fresh, with a hint of vanilla from ageing in oak. Delicious with an Orange tompouce, a couscous salad with feta, a sole fried in butter, or fried empanadas. What doesn’t it go with, really? I can understand our King.
Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 2017, California, € 19.95
Kendall-Jackson’s Chardonnay is the best-selling Chardonnay in the US—and has been for 26 years! So you’re holding liquid gold in your hands. This wine got the best of both worlds: it’s fresh and tropical. This calls for chicken, people! With an even fresher style, I’d say throw it on the grill, but with this Chardonnay I’d serve pasta with a cream sauce. Prefer fish? Then definitely add a buttery sauce. Also delicious: eel. Smoked mackerel. Lobster! Or go delightfully low-brow with fish&chips.
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