Q&A with Gill Meller

Gill Meller is known from River Cottage, a cookery institution that has been on British television for years, where honest local produce is used in cooking. In his latest cookbook, Gather, he does exactly that: cooking from the land.

Each chapter in the book is dedicated to a landscape. In the chapter ‘The Farm’, for example, you will find recipes in which pork or dairy takes centre stage. The chapter ‘The Harbour’ is full of recipes for fish and shellfish.

Which food trend should we put an immediate stop to?

I think we should seriously consider eating less meat from intensive livestock farming. We should support farmers who produce meat in an ethical and sustainable way.

Most memorable food experience?

I have two that are completely different from each other. One was in a restaurant in the south of France, in a bergerie: a restaurant on a farm, something that is common in the French countryside. You often eat in a very simple setting. Ingredients from the farm are prepared in a simple way by the farmer and his wife. We used to go to France a lot and would always visit the same bergerie. It was always a wonderful experience because the food was so honest, with no pretension. It was lovely to sit outside on a warm summer evening and, besides, it was very affordable; everything just fell into place.

Another memory I will always cherish is dining at Noma a few years ago. In gastronomic terms, it was an experience I don’t know if anything will ever surpass. The skills required to put such a menu on the table and the unusual, sometimes challenging elements in a dish were not only fascinating but also inspiring.

Favourite drink?

I drink water throughout the day, so my answer is really fresh, cold water. But I also love a beautiful Spanish wine, such as a Tempranillo, especially one from Rioja. I also enjoy French wines from the Rhône or Primitivo wines from southern Italy. And I would never say no to a good gin & tonic.

Indispensable kitchen gadget?

For me, it is obviously a knife; without my excellent sharp knives, I would be lost in the kitchen. That may sound obvious, but it is the one thing I really cannot do without.

What will you never eat again?

Andouillette. It is a sausage from Lyon, made entirely from offal. I really don’t like rolled-up offal in a casing. The organ-meat flavour lingered for a long time. Some people love it; it is a very popular and traditional dish, but I cannot see the appeal.

Which country is your favourite when it comes to food?

I haven’t travelled very much, but I think Italy is a wonderful country when it comes to food. I love that simple approach to cooking, and the flavours are always delicious. I also love seeing the differences between regions; everywhere you get something slightly different. It is a country where, as far as food is concerned, I could happily live.

What should everyone try at least once?

If you have the opportunity, stand somewhere in a garden and pull vegetables fresh from the ground in the middle of summer. Pull a carrot from the soil, brush off the earth and take a bite. Without cooking it, without seasoning it. Peas, radishes, anything you can eat straight from the ground is wonderful. It is something not everyone does, even though it is such a simple pleasure. I encourage everyone to try it.

What is the best product in the supermarket?

These days, you can buy products in supermarkets made by small producers. If there are products you are familiar with, see whether you can also buy them from a small local business or a producer that works ethically and responsibly.

What is still on your food wish list?

I would like to travel more. I had a daughter at a young age and worked all my life, so I haven’t had much time to travel. I would love to discover cuisines I don’t know yet. Places such as Japan or Asia in general, but Iceland also seems interesting to me.

Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?

McGee on Food and Cooking by Harold McGee is fantastic reading for anyone interested in food. They are not really recipes, but more background information about the science surrounding food, ingredients, cooking techniques and processes. It is a must-have for every cook, because reading the book teaches you to truly understand food.

What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?

I often simply make a fried egg on toast made from good sourdough bread with a little Marmite. The egg does have to be easy over. To do that, you flip the egg for a second to cook the top very briefly, while the yolk remains soft.

Which dish leaves you with no self-control?

When I am really hungry, I get excited about just about any food. But I find it difficult to stop when there is a spread of good ham, cheeses, bread, figs and honey. Add a nice bottle of wine and I will keep eating all evening.

Image: Andrew Montgomery