Q&A with Merijn van Berlo
Merijn van Berlo cooks a lot with vegetables at his popular Amsterdam restaurant Choux. In addition, Van Berlo works as chef at restaurant La Cantine throughout the summer at the de Parade theatre festival. Here he cooks classics: from an excellent pasta Napolitana to a meticulously prepared Caesar salad.
Which food trend should we put an immediate stop to?
Pseudo-veganism: guests you cook a special menu for, really put a lot of effort into, and who then casually order a cappuccino afterwards.
Most memorable dining experience?
Noma. I’ve been there twice. I walked out with tears in my eyes. You eat 20 courses, so it wasn’t just one thing. Although one dish will always stay with me: sea urchin and walnut, so simple, yet so amazing. To top it all off, we got a tour after dinner. We saw 20 people bent over walnuts, removing the skins. What they do there is of course impossible for many businesses, far too expensive. But that dedication is wonderful to see. When you arrive, the entire staff welcomes you. You immediately feel so welcome. If you’re very involved with food yourself and then see that… It makes me feel like an amateur. Memorable is an understatement.
Favourite drink?
Wine. Preferably natural wine. I’m naturally spoiled when it comes to wine; I have Figo (the sommelier at Choux, ed.) by my side. He knows exactly what I like.
Indispensable kitchen gadget?
A Thermomix. A Magimix that blends at a set temperature. You can create such a beautifully smooth texture with it. The thing is incredibly versatile. It’s at the Parade too; I use it there to make béarnaise for the côte de boeuf. At Choux, we work a lot with vegetable juices and creams. Texture is very important then, and this appliance gets it right.
What would you never eat again?
Sausages from France made with offal. Andouillettes. I have nothing against offal in itself; I love using every part of an animal. It’s a childhood trauma: on holiday with my parents, I was served them. The smell that came off them… yes, I can never eat them again. As a ten-year-old, I had a different idea of what a sausage was… That was quite a shock.
Which country is your favourite when it comes to food?
Denmark. The simplicity, which I myself very often completely forget, is admirable. I find it very difficult to decide that something is finished. The art of leaving things out is truly an art, in my opinion. They are masters at it. Special combinations without any fuss—like that sea urchin with walnut at Noma. Yes, I think the New Nordic cuisine is fantastic. Light and full of vegetables. This cuisine is an inspiration for Choux.
What should everyone try at least once?
Kid goat. Joris Bijdendijk has made it his personal crusade to make the meat of this little animal—which was previously regarded as a by-product—hip again. The meat is wonderfully tender, sustainable and absolutely worthy of fine dining.
What is the best product from the supermarket?
Cress. Delicious on my sandwich with bacon, mayo and tomato. It’s the first thing that goes into my basket. I never quite understand why the produce section is always the first one, by the way; after a trip around the supermarket, all those vegetables just end up crushed under cartons of milk and cans of beer, don’t they?
What is still on your food wish list?
I’d really love to go to Ettica (Australia), a restaurant by Ben Shewry. It’s just extremely far away.
Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?
Puurst. The latest book by Jonnie Boer of De Librije. A really beautiful book. And the new edition is very affordable (€49.95). Full of really great recipes, also for non-professionals.
What do you like to make at home when you want to eat quickly and well?
Pasta. It causes the least discussion at the table. My children are six and two. No fussing about food. I make an incredibly simple Napolitana. Super easy.
Which dish do you have no self-control around?
Sushi. I used to go to Yoichi on the Weteringschans. If you went there, you got a 25-cent coin back as a thank-you for your reservation.
Recently, I ordered sushi online for four people. While my wife and I were sitting on the sofa together. We could have invited people, but I just keep eating until I feel sick.
