Review of restaurant Vermeer: relaxed fine dining in Amsterdam

Restaurant Vermeer at the NH Collection Amsterdam Barbizon Palace is one of those places where everything just works. Historic building? Check. Seasonal cuisine with creative flair? Double check. Chef with international allure and military precision? Checkcheckcheck. Chef Sebastian Baquero Garces previously worked for none other than Alain Ducasse. And the wines? They’re served from magnums.

We’ve been fans of Vermeer for years because of its refined dishes and serene ambiance. An evening at Vermeer is not your average dinner, but a culinary experience that stays with you for a long time. Whether you go for the full menu or just a glass of wine in the new Wijnkamer: this is fine dining without pretension, but with heaps of character. And as far as we’re concerned: bring back that star! Vermeer had one Michelin star until 2022, and it’s high time that star was screwed back onto the façade.

Serene setting, exciting dishes
We start the evening with an amuse in Vermeer’s lounge bar, where delightful bubbles and creative cocktails shine alongside matching bar bites. Vermeer’s setting has had a little touch-up and is as timeless as it is stylish, with an intimate atmosphere that invites you to linger over dinner. What stands out: hardly any salt, sugar or dairy is used in the cooking here; the dishes come into their own thanks to reductions, fermentations and perfect cuisson. The delicious spelt sourdough bread, made according to the chef’s recipe, comes with airy butter and a hint of sea salt – one of the few dishes where salt is used deliberately.

New chef: Sebastian Baquero Garces
After 18 (!) years, Vermeer’s former chef Chris Naylor handed over the reins to Sebastian Baquero Garces. Chef Sebastian not only has a defence background, which brings military precision to the kitchen; he also previously worked for the famous French chef Alain Ducasse. Sebastian cooks from the strength of the ingredient – and likes to let it speak in its purest form.

White linen in the kitchen
Sebastian’s military background is evident in every detail. From the worktops in the kitchen – with white linen that must stay white, because it demands focus – to the seasonal vegetables with homemade kombucha, the sublime arrow squid with attic bacon, the champagne sorbet with caviar or the Kemper chicken pithivier with Vin Jaune: refined, thoughtful and executed to perfection.

Wines from magnums
The wine list is just as impressive. Sommelier Dannis Apeldoorn – with 23 years of experience at, among others, Hotel de L’Europe – serves wines from magnums, allowing them to mature even more beautifully and adding that little extra to the experience. Whether it’s a riesling from the Mosel, a Bandol rosé from 2013 (yes, rosé can definitely age) or a beautiful Burgundy. Everything is perfectly matched to the plate. A lovely detail: the pre-dessert of champagne sorbet with caviar – so decadent and so delicious – made with the champagne we started the evening with. And the tarte flambée of 75% Ecuadorian cacao with off-dry riesling? Wow. You’ll dream about it for days.

Extra fun: the Chef’s Table
The Chef’s Table has not officially launched yet, but we got the chance to eat one of the dishes in the kitchen. And it’s genuinely great fun, so if the option is available: reserve your spot here. You sit in the calm of the lion’s den, which is great fun! And the fact that sommelier Dannis is a real ace in his field is also clear from the way he let the bubbles escape from the non-alcoholic sparkling tea with the lamb dish, making it even more gastronomically versatile – a masterclass in craftsmanship!

Menus, address and opening hours
Restaurant Vermeer is located at Prins Hendrikkade 59-72, directly opposite Amsterdam Central Station. The restaurant offers several menu options:
- 4-course menu – €90
- 5-course menu – €110
- 6-course menu – €130
- 7-course menu – €140
Opening hours:
- Closed on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday
- Wednesday to Saturday: 18:00 – 20:30 (restaurant closes at 00:00)

Vermeer’s Wijnkamer
No time for an extensive dinner, but in the mood for a good glass? Then drop by Vermeer’s Wijnkamer, located in the former Bottles & Jars on Zeedijk. Here you can taste carefully selected wines by the glass, with refined bites that complement Vermeer’s signature style. Cheers to history, hospitality and finesse in Amsterdam!
Read also:
- R21 in Amsterdam: a strong contender for a Michelin star
- Review: the new French restaurant Veneur in Amsterdam
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