Taiko and the King of Crabs

Schilo van Coevorden is a modest chef. He stands in his kitchen at restaurant Taiko rather than on society pages. And what he does in that Japanese-inspired kitchen is pure magic. As modest as he is, his ingredients and flavors are equally expressive. Such as ‘his’ new ingredient of the year: red king crab.

Inspired by the Chinese calendar, restaurant Taiko celebrates its anniversary every September: Taiko New Year. Chef Schilo van Coevorden seizes this moment to announce his new ingredient of the year during a twelve-course birthday celebration.

Wasabi
An ingredient that will play a prominent role on the Japanese-inspired restaurant’s menu for an entire year. Last year it was wasabi. The year before that, wagyu beef. There was much speculation about what the ingredient of the year might be this time. Seaweed? Soy? It turned out to be red king crab.

Red king crab sounds exclusive, and of course it is

Red king crab sounds very exclusive, and of course it is. But in Norwegian Hammerfest, where fish supplier Jan van As sources his, it is the equivalent of the Canada goose at Schiphol Airport. A pest that drives out local species such as halibut by devouring them skin and all, while steadily expanding its swimming territory, which actually lies near Alaska. What makes this king of crabs, which can weigh up to ten kilos, so expensive is the specialist transportation.

The WWF recently labeled red king crab (‘kani’ in Japanese) a 100% sustainable product, provided it is caught in season. That means during the colder months of the year. And only the red variety. The blue and golden varieties are neither tasty nor sustainable.

The best thing you can do with a pest is eat it. And that is exactly what Schilo has his guests do. In a twelve-course ‘King of Crabs’ omakase lunch, he incorporates the pest crabs into gyoza (Japanese dumplings), serves them in a ‘cappuccino’, smokes them tableside on nigiri, combines them with veal cheek, and serves them in perhaps the most unusual combination with edamame hummus and miso. Schilo is the King of Crabs.

You can enjoy the ‘King of Crabs’ twelve-course omakase menu at Taiko through September 18, 2018, for 115 euros per person.

Restaurant Taiko, Conservatorium Hotel
Van Baerlestraat 27
Amsterdam

Image: Marjan Ippel and Presstigieux.