eating abroad

A Michelin-starred ramen restaurant is opening here soon

FFramen2

We would never call Japanese ramen soup simple, because a truly great ramen broth can take days to make in order to give it those intense, deep aromas and flavors. Add a perfect soft-boiled egg, tender meat or keep it veggie; you can wake us up for it in the middle of the night…

 

Foto van culinair journalist Delilah Warcup - van Eyck

And while an instant noodle cup is delightfully low-brow indulgence, good ramen is, as far as we’re concerned, the higher art of noodle soup. Still, with some time and patience you can also make incredibly delicious ramen yourself, although we’d rather slurp it from a bowl at a little restaurant where someone else has lovingly made it for us. And at this New York establishment, things will probably be absolutely fantastic soon:

Back to the roots

Because New York will soon be home to a branch of the restaurant where you could first slurp Michelin-star-worthy ramen: Japan’s Tsuta. Chef Yuki Onishi trained at his father’s ramen restaurant, briefly left the nest for a career in luxury fashion, but returned after extensive travel and eating abroad made one thing clear to him: he wanted to return to the purity of umami dashi (broth) in Japanese cuisine. In 2015, Tsuta was awarded its first Michelin star, and stars have practically rained down there every year since.

To America

And now comes the journey to New York, alongside the two restaurants he previously opened in Singapore. What makes his ramen distinctive? A unique soy-sauce-based dashi, unlike the pork-broth ramen soups that are more familiar. He uses various oils and sauces to create his secret recipe, doesn’t believe in artificial ingredients or MSG, and guests slurp it down with love and appreciation. Soon in New York, then, as soon as the hospitality industry there is allowed to fully reopen.

And to close with Tsuta’s motto: ‘There is no perfect bowl of ramen. There is only a delicacy that is more wonderful each time than the bowl before it.’ Hear, hear!

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