Food stories

Keuringsdienst van Waarde checks: this is what’s really going on with supermarket cheese slices (and it’s not good)

beeld kaas Keuringsdienst KRO-NCRV

Do you also find a slice of bread with cheese irresistible? And do you always buy those slices at the supermarket? Then we have some remarkable news for you. That cheese doesn’t come from a round, naturally matured cheese, but from a rectangular block of cheese. Huh? 

Foto van culinair journalist Jeske van Steen

We really should have realized sooner that there’s a catch with those slices of prepackaged supermarket cheese. Because how can it be that all those slices look so perfectly alike? Cut into exactly the same shape, with the same color and shine, equally thick, no holes… That’s impossible if they come from a round, naturally matured cheese, right? The Keuringsdienst van Waarde wondered the same thing. And that’s why they went investigating.

Naturally matured cheese…

You probably know the image: those large, round cheeses left to mature on wooden racks. A whole process precedes that. In short, the curd (the initial stage of cheese: a clump of milk proteins coagulated by rennet) is pressed into a mold, after which it goes into a salt bath (or brine bath). After the salt bath, the cheese is left to mature for a few weeks or months. All kinds of things happen to the cheese during this time, eventually giving it its characteristic flavor. But that’s not all: during maturation, the cheese also develops color and holes. We’re all massively addicted to this kind of cheese

…versus foil-wrapped cheese

Keuringsdienst van Waarde discovered that not every supermarket cheese undergoes such an extensive maturation process. Especially not prepackaged cheese slices. This is also known as foil-wrapped cheese: cheese that is mechanically cut from a rectangular block and packaged in vacuum foil after maturing for 2 to 3 weeks. The cheese continues to mature in the foil for around 4 more weeks, and then it’s ready for sale. This process is cheap, easy to carry out and fast for producers. And most importantly for them: it’s hugely profitable. Foil-wrapped cheese doesn’t lose any moisture—naturally matured cheese loses around 3 kilos after a year—and producers can therefore sell much more of it.

No holes?

When you think about it, cheese without holes is actually a pretty strange sight. But how does that happen? Keuringsdienst van Waarde spoke with cheesemonger Luuk Slagter. He explains that it has to do with vacuum-packaging the cheese. This means the cheese doesn’t get any chance to mature properly. Among other things, no bacteria are released that produce gases in the cheese, which can create holes. The result: holeless, “too perfect” cheese. Luuk also aptly calls it “putty.”

Pay a nice visit to the cheesemonger

The tricky thing is that, as a consumer, you have no idea whether you’re buying foil-wrapped cheese or slices of naturally matured cheese. It isn’t stated anywhere on the packaging. According to the law, producers don’t have to mention it. Want to take your cheese sandwich to the next level and buy slices of naturally matured cheese? Then don’t buy cheese slices that look too perfect. Too pale in color, holeless and cut into perfect slices are all red flags. Otherwise, pay another nice visit to the cheesemonger. They’ll lovingly slice those delicious naturally matured cheese slices for you. From a round block, of course.

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Source & image: KRO-NCRV

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