Why Anchovies Actually Deserve a Prize or a Pat on the Back
Some people shudder at anchovies because they’re little fishy fish from a tin. But I’m giving you five reasons why you should love anchovies wholeheartedly—in fact, why anchovies should actually win a prize. Not for the most photogenic food, but the Oscar for best supporting actor. Because in many dishes, anchovies do their useful work—without you even realizing it.
According to trend watchers, anchovies are going to be huge. Not surprising, because this little fish is increasingly being embraced as an important flavor enhancer in pastas and sauces. In San Francisco, there’s even a restaurant dedicated entirely to this umami bomb: The Anchovy Bar.
Tip 1: eat them skin and hair and all
Not literally, but almost: if you have tasty anchovies from a tin or jar, you can eat them straight out of hand. And if that’s a little too hardcore for you, think of pissaladière, a southern French onion tart with olives and anchovies. Delicious! Or make real Spanish pintxos, with roasted pepper and an anchovy on a slice of toasted baguette, secured with a little skewer, with sherry on the side.
Tip 2: put them in pasta sauce
Anchovies are pure umami; they have flavor-enhancing qualities. And those come fully into their own when you add an anchovy to your everyday pasta sauce. How do you do it? Finely chop an anchovy, heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pan and gently fry the anchovy, garlic and onion together over low heat until the fish has completely melted and the garlic and onion are soft and fragrant. Then add puréed tomatoes, and optionally some ground meat or vegetables. Let it simmer: perfect pasta sauce.
Tip 3: make salad dressing with them
Caesar Cardini came up with Caesar’s Salad; his brother got the idea to add anchovies. Win-win. Skeptical? Try the salad dressing and you’ll know enough. And if you don’t believe the Cardini brothers, think of Worcestershire sauce. The secret ingredient in that super-flavorful sauce: anchovies. I’m not making this up.
Tip 4: put one in the chicken (or a roast)
Similar to the pasta sauce tip, but slightly different. Make the filling for the chicken with breadcrumbs, bacon fat, herbs such as thyme and rosemary—and for the roast: sage—and chop one or two anchovies into it. Stuff the chicken completely with it, then rub it with olive oil, generously season with pepper and salt, and put it in the oven. Man, you won’t believe what you’re tasting. The same goes for a roast that you tie yourself: put an anchovy in the filling and brace yourself for an explosion of flavor.
Tip 5: make anchovy butter
Dead simple and delicious: mash a finely chopped anchovy into a piece of soft butter, with some pepper and lemon zest and a little juice. A knob of that butter on a grilled steak: heaven. Use that butter to fry an omelet or eggs: heaven. Spread anchovy butter on warm baguette: heaven.
Also read:
- Recipe: cauliflower tempura with anchovy mayonnaise
- Recipe: orecchiette with broccoli and anchovies
- Recipe: ravioli with broccoli, anchovies, sun-dried tomato and ricotta
