Thirsty tales

Why we’re fans of the percolator, plus tips for making perfect coffee with it

percolator koffie Italiaans

Italy has the Fiat, the Colosseum, the Vespa and the Vatican. It has Michelangelo, pistachio pasta, Massimo Bottura and a fountain that pours free wine. But little says Italy to me more than the moka pot, the little pot bubbling away on the stove and the smell of coffee storming into your nostrils without mercy. Also known as the Bialetti or percolator. But how do you make the perfect coffee with it? Well, with these tips.

Foto van culinair journalist Sophie van der Meer

One of my little Italian rituals in the Netherlands is starting the day with coffee from my percolator, even though there’s a beautiful automatic coffee machine on my countertop. It doesn’t come without a bit of a struggle, though. A cup from a percolator comes with risks, because over-extraction and bitter notes lurk at almost every step. But a life without risks is boring, and making coffee with a percolator simply requires a guide—which I’m happy to share with you.

Making percolator coffee, step 1: use fresh beans

Your perfect cup starts with the foundation, and that means good coffee beans. Go for freshly ground, high-quality beans and avoid pre-packaged, stale coffee beans that have been waiting on supermarket shelves for months. Preferably choose whole coffee beans and grind them yourself just before use. This ensures optimal flavour and aroma. A coarse grind is not suitable for a percolator, so grind the beans finely to a consistency similar to table salt.

Step 2: the right amount of water

Fill the water reservoir with fresh, cold water. Pour the water into the lower section of your percolator, just below the pressure-release valve. If you use too much water, there won’t be enough air to push the water through the coffee filter, and you’ll end up with coffee that is boiled, with a bitter or even burnt taste.

Step 3: fill the percolator with coffee

Place the filter in the lower section and fill it with the ground coffee. And now leave it alone; don’t press down the coffee if you want the water to flow through properly and achieve even extraction. At most, level it off a little so the coffee doesn’t get between the seal. Screw the top section firmly onto the lower section of the percolator.

Step 4: medium heat

Place your percolator over medium heat—you don’t want coffee shooting up like a rocket. Patience is a virtue. Moderate heat ensures even heat distribution, and that’s exactly what you need. Heat that is too high can lead to a bitter taste and over-extraction.

Step 5: let it rest briefly

When your coffee starts to flow slowly, it’s time to lower the heat so your precious coffee doesn’t burn. Keep it at a gentle, steady pace until your percolator has finished its work. That moment has arrived when it changes from bubbling to hissing, which means all the water has passed through. Don’t wait too long, or the coffee may become bitter again. Remove your percolator from the heat immediately and let it rest briefly before pouring.

The perfect crema layer

Getting a crema layer on your Italian percolator coffee can be tricky, because the device doesn’t work in the same way as an espresso machine. Crema normally forms through the pressure built up during the espresso extraction process. Although you may not be able to get a thick crema layer like you do with espresso, freshly ground beans improve your chances. Especially if you grind them more finely than usual, as a finer grind can help extract more oils from the coffee, which form that layer on top.

Using the right amount of coffee—which varies depending on the size of your percolator—is essential, and adjusting the heat as described above also improves your chances. Finally, you need to screw your pot shut tightly, as a good seal helps build pressure during brewing, which can contribute to the formation of crema.

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Source: Italiamo

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