Janny’s Masterclass: never miss the mark with fish again
We all know her from Heel Holland Bakt, but Janny van der Heijden is much more than that. She writes daily about food, drinks, cooking and tasting, has written several cookbooks, is an avid tableware collector, is a columnist for Franska.nl and is also happy to provide us with the very best tips. This time: a masterclass in fish.
The advice is to eat more fish, but most of us find preparing fish rather difficult. If we’re being honest, the poor creature is also quite often ruined in the pan. It really doesn’t have to be! First of all, a few tips for buying fish, and nooooo, you don’t do that at the supermarket. Unless you live in France; there, they display the fish beautifully on ice, unlike the pre-packaged, cut-up specimens in sad little packages that we have to make do with at the supermarket.
How do you recognize fresh fish?
First of all: Fish should smell like the sea, not like fish. If a fish smells too strong, it is usually too old. Fish that has been lying around too long is no longer really tasty (‘guests and fish stay fresh for three days’) and moreover easily falls apart when fried. More importantly: if you buy a whole fish, you can tell how fresh it is – the eyes should be clear, not cloudy, the gills on the inside should be beautifully red and the fish skin should shine nicely.
Which fish can and can’t you eat?
And then there’s the next problem: Which fish can I eat and which should I avoid, and especially when? Fortunately, lists can be found online. I’m a big fan of Bart van Olphen (by the way, did you know that Jamie Oliver is too?) and on his website you’ll find absolutely everything you need to know about fish. Such as: What about tuna? Which varieties are fine to eat (Skipjack tuna or Albacore tuna)? Which can you eat in moderation (Yellowfin)? And which are better left alone (Bluefin)? There are also instructional videos and explanations of certification labels.
But now for preparing that fish. Frying, grilling, poaching, steaming, baking in a parcel or cooking in a stew. The rule for all preparations is: please, above all, don’t overcook the fish.
Frying
The most common mistake when frying fish is turning it over too quickly. Fry it in a generous amount of butter, oil or a combination of both until the underside of the fish releases from the pan. You can feel this by sliding the pan back and forth. Don’t try to turn it if it still doesn’t want to slide. Fish with skin should first be fried skin-side down. Until the skin is deliciously crisp. You can eat the skin, but you don’t have to. Very important before the fish goes into the pan: pat it dry.
Grilling
Never grease the grill pan with oil; always oil the fish. The same applies here: don’t turn the fish until it releases. You can easily monitor the cooking process from the side. The fish changes colour at the edge from translucent white or pink to ‘blind-opaque’. Those are the coagulated proteins. Once the opaque area has risen to approximately 1/4 – 1/3 of the fish’s thickness, you can usually turn it over. At the halfway point, it’s already too late.
Poaching
Poaching is rarely done these days. Remember that poaching is different from boiling. In other words: the liquid must not boil. It should be still, as it were (off the boil), with no movement when the fish goes in. Too high a temperature is truly unforgiving, because it makes fish tough. Fish gains more flavour when the water is enhanced with some herbs and lemon.
Steaming
Steaming has advantages: the fish doesn’t need to be turned. A bamboo basket is useful, but a plate that fits on the pan of boiling water works too, as does a metal basket. Preferably place the seasoned fish on a bed of herbs, chopped onion, seaweed or something similar and cover with a lid. This is important because the steam can circulate and cook the fish as a result. A few minutes, up to a maximum of 10 minutes, is sufficient.
Oven
Baking fish in a parcel is a little like steaming and has the advantage that you can serve the fish in the parcel. Lightly grease some baking paper. Place the fish on it with (fresh) herbs or vegetables, drizzle with some wine (stock or soy sauce, for example, works too) and fold it loosely closed so that the air can expand but cannot escape. Place on the rack for 10–15 minutes and don’t do anything else… Well, eat it, then.
Stewing
Fish stews are delicious, but prepare the stew itself first and only then add the fish. It really only needs a few minutes, so please don’t stew it for long. Mussels and prawns only need to be heated through, so a minute is usually sufficient.
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