Q&A with Bas Robben

Talk about a flying start: culinary journalist Bas Robben’s debut, ‘Zuur’, has just been released and has already been nominated for ‘Cookbook of the Year’. 

Which food trend should we put an immediate end to?

Avocado toast? The horror. And warm avocado is the very worst. It’s a savoury banana that doesn’t really taste of anything and I have absolutely no affinity with it.

Most memorable food experience?

That was with my boyfriend in Taiwan, when we went to eat in  Jiufen, quite a touristy town. Eventually, we ended up somewhere in a narrow market street that looked pretty shady. We went into a little place and walked through the kitchen to the back. At the back, you got shaved ice with various rice cakes, mango, mung beans and condensed milk. Behind that, you arrived on a rooftop terrace overlooking the bay while the sun was setting.

Favourite drink?

The Pornstar Martini from my book. You make this cocktail with a shrub made from sugar, vinegar, pineapple, coriander and pink pepper. You mix that shrub with vanilla liqueur, a little vodka and lemon juice. Shake it briefly and then place half a passion fruit in the glass. You serve the martini alongside a glass of prosecco. It’s mainly the shrub that makes it delicious, because it burns nicely in your throat. I also really love gin and tonic with Bobby’s gin.

Indispensable kitchen gadget?

I have a small device for sharpening knives, and I have a garlic press from Oldenhof that you can also use to cut slices. I think that’s really handy, because I don’t like the smell of garlic on my fingers.

I detest every form of cheese, except ricotta or mascarpone.

What would you never eat again?

I detest every form of cheese, except ricotta and mascarpone.

Which country is your favourite when it comes to food?

I haven’t travelled very much, but I do go to Taiwan every year. It’s a country with lots of crazy dishes that require specific equipment, such as that snow ice and bubble tea. In the capital Taipei, they have a lovely street-food dish: noodles made from pressed fish. It’s so clever that they can make a noodle from fish.

What should everyone try at least once?

A wood ear mushroom, which is a white fungus. You buy it dried at an Asian grocery store and it looks like a sponge you’d use to take a shower. You soak it and then prepare the fungus with a sugar syrup. The texture is so unusual, a little cartilage-like. I think it’s absolutely delicious, but you have to be into it. I once made it for my dining club, and only one person ate it.

What is the best product from the supermarket?

I get quite a lot from the supermarket, but if I have to choose: I really love the yoghurt ice cream from Appie. The fennel sausages from Brandt & Levie are also great.

What is still on your food wish list?

I’d really like to go to Seoul to try lots of Korean food. There must be more than just bulgogi and kimchi. Hopefully I’ll go next month, otherwise in the spring. At home, I’m already trying lots of dishes from Our Korean Kitchen. And I’m watching all of Mark Wiens’s videos on YouTube. He films everything he eats—so great.

Which cookbook should everyone have on their shelf?

The Shanghai Kitchen (original title: The Land of Fish and Rice) by Fuchsia Dunlop. Twenty years ago, she was the first Western woman to attend chef training in Sichuan, and therefore speaks Chinese fluently. This book is mainly about real Chinese food from Shanghai and the surrounding province. It contains only authentic Chinese recipes, which means you can’t cook everything in the Netherlands. She makes no compromises when it comes to the ingredients. If you can’t find something, tough luck.

What do you like making at home when you want to eat quickly and well?

I stir-fry quite often, and first toss Nadia & Merijn Sichuan peppercorns into the pan; they’re incredibly aromatic. They’re delicious combined with vegetables such as bimi and asparagus.

Which dish do you have no self-control around?

I think Nigella’s caramelcroissant pudding is so delicious. You make this dish with day-old croissants, caramel custard and a little whiskey.

Image: Jeroen van der Spek