Tasty grape #5: pinot noir
There are thousands of different grape varieties, and every year more are added through new crossings or (re)discoveries. Which grapes should you really (learn to) know? In the ‘tasty grape’ series, I share my favourites, along with wine tips. This time: pinot noir. A true diva!
Like her royal sister chardonnay, the grape is a true celebrity: all the great red wines of Burgundy, the birthplace of pinot noir, are made from pinot noir. They have long been the most expensive and sought-after red wines in the world. But while chardonnay is as flexible (because of her accommodating nature, she is also known as ‘the slut among grapes’), pinot noir is notoriously difficult…
Talking about the devil
This prima donna has a thin skin. That makes her susceptible to all kinds of vineyard diseases. And she is not exactly very generous either. While chardonnay is the gift that keeps on giving in terms of high yields, pinot noir delivers the best results when yields are low. The right climate (please, no frost, which Burgundy is so often plagued by, but she cannot handle heat either), the perfect soil… You would not want her as your wife. Infuriating. The famous Californian winemaker André Tchelistcheff therefore put it aptly: ‘God made Cabernet Sauvignon, whereas the devil made Pinot Noir.’
From fruity to leathery
Despite this difficult character, the world lies at her slender feet. Pinot noir is also incredibly seductive and mysterious. Those delicious and often elegant aromas and flavours alone… From fruit jewels from the greengrocer’s (cherries, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries) to leather, something smoky and mushrooms. Sometimes the wine has hints of sweet spices (such as cinnamon and nutmeg), often with an earthy quality, especially in Burgundies, as if you are walking through a wet autumnal forest. Unlike, for example, the powerful Shiraz/Syrah, Pinot Noirs are light to medium-bodied. They are often light, fresh and juicy wines that feel velvety soft in your mouth. Once you have kissed her, you will never want anything else.
World-famous
The world’s most famous pinot noir vineyard, Romanée-Conti, is just 1.84 hectares in size and is surrounded by an old stone wall. This is where the world’s most expensive wine comes from. You can easily spend thousands of euros on a bottle of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
Beyond Burgundy
Despite pinot noir’s fussiness, winemakers around the world know what she is capable of if you give her exactly what she wants. That is why pinot noir is planted in many places. In France beyond Burgundy, in the United States, New Zealand, Chile, South Africa and Australia, to name just a few countries. Sometimes you will encounter her under another name: spätburgunder in Germany, blauburgunder in Austria and pinot nero in Italy are the best known. And the warmer the region, the more voluptuous and jammy the wine.
Pop!
When people think of pinot noir, they always think of red wine, but pinot noir is also one of the grapes used to make Champagne. You have probably drunk pinot noir far more often in your life than you realise!
What do we eat with it?
Anything! That is the fun thing about this diva; she is an excellent dinner companion. The fresher styles (such as Burgundies and Pinot Noirs from New Zealand) are unbeatable with (dishes containing) mushrooms, pâté and poultry. And naturally, typically Burgundian dishes are a perfect match too, because ‘if it grows together, it goes together!‘ I once drank a Pinot Noir with Oeufs en Meurette. I still dream about it sometimes. The more voluptuous styles pair well with duck (a classic!), but also with game and spicy Asian dishes. Indonesian rendang, Japanese salmon with teriyaki sauce or the vegan version, piri-piri chicken; it all works. Bet you will be a pinot lover too by the end of this?
Serving you: three showstoppers, increasing in price.
Laurent Miquel Solas Pinot Noir, 2018, Southern France, €9.95
Pinot Noir is never cheap. Finding a red wine under a tenner is easy enough, but there is little chance it will be a Pinot Noir. Still, I found one for you. Solas comes from the Pays d’Oc; the southern French Languedoc-Roussillon, which produces many cépage wines. These are wines made from just one grape variety. In this case, pinot noir. What can you expect? A fresh and fruity wine that you can happily drink slightly chilled when it is warm. Delicious with some charcuterie. I already know what I will be drinking while cooking at Christmas. This wine is perfect for that! And early guests get a glass beforehand.
Errázuriz Max Reserva Pinot Noir, 2017, Chile, € 14.95
Recently I drank a Chardonnay from this winery and I liked it a lot. Chilean wines offer such wonderful value for money; I cannot remember ever making a bad purchase. This Pinot Noir is another one of those. So deliciously juicy, full of red fruit and rosehips. Lovely with a duck breast salad with raspberry dressing. Too much trouble? Then make a simple pasta with assorted mushrooms, or even simpler: crackers with cranberry pâté—yes, just the one from Appie.
Chanson Bourgogne Pinot Noir, 2018, Burgundy, France € 18.95
With a name containing the word ‘noir’, you might think you are dealing with a dark wine, but nothing could be further from the truth; the wine is surprisingly light and has the bright red colour so characteristic of Pinot Noir. In tastings, you can often pick it out easily without having taken a sip. If you do, you have a delicious, genuine Burgundy on your hands for less than twenty euros. Add guinea fowl and leave it at that. And would you like to get to know Burgundy better, with all its impossible and famous vineyards and appellations? Chanson makes many different Burgundies that are more than worth trying.
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