Tasty grape #6: sauvignon blanc
There are thousands of different grape varieties, and every year more are added through new crosses or (re)discoveries. Which grapes should you really get to know? In the ‘tasty grape’ series, I share my favorites, along with wine tips. This time: sauvignon blanc. And on International Sauvignon Blanc Day (March 5), no less!
The queen of white grapes is the great counterpart to ‘slutty’ chardonnay. You recognize Sauvignon Blanc by its fresh acidity and exuberant character. In these dry and super-refreshing wines, you often smell gooseberries, green apples and grapefruit, but also freshly mown grass, and perhaps even something like a cat that has peed against a boxwood hedge (and yes, that’s delicious).
The wild white
The grape originally comes from Bordeaux. The name derives from the French word sauvage, meaning ‘wild’; the grape spread through the French region like a weed. You don’t often encounter it alone in a bottle; in Bordeaux, it’s a true ‘blending grape’. How different things are in the Loire!
Classic Sauvignon Blanc
The wildly popular Sauvignon Blanc style is the one from the French wine region of the Loire, led by Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Here, Sauvignon Blanc is a beautiful little princess in a fairytale setting dotted with magical fairytale castles and charming villages. Keywords for these ‘Sauvs’: dry and razor-sharp, with plenty of fresh acidity and lots of citrus fruit. The wines are crackling, exuberant and singing. The classic style is intensely green (grass and gooseberry), although there are also richer-style Sancerres with aromas of peach and melon. Pouilly-Fumé often has something smoky instead, reminiscent of flint—the smell you get when you strike two stones together or play with your nephew’s cap gun. Be sure to try Touraine Sauvignon Blanc too. Wines from the Loire Valley are often surprisingly affordable and real crowd pleasers.
Modern Sauvignon Blanc
The modern style originated in New Zealand. Sauvignon Blanc achieved unprecedented success here in no time at all. In France, they were taken aback when they saw their grape enchanting one wine drinker after another on the other side of the globe. If you browse online or in wine shops for Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, there’s a good chance the label will mention ‘Marlborough’. It’s also known as the capital of Sauvignon Blanc. Some even consider it the very best place in the world for the grape. The days are filled with plenty of sunshine, while the nights are cool under the influence of the Pacific Ocean. This contrast is ideal for growing grapes because they ripen more slowly.
Sauvignon Blancs from down under also have that pure, fresh acidity, but combined with the full, juicy, exotic fruit that characterizes the white wines of the ‘New World’ (all wine-producing countries outside Europe). The green bursts out of the glass: think gooseberries, freshly mown grass and yes, there’s that cat peeing on the boxwood again. And how!
You love it or you hate it
Although the grape has found a second home in New Zealand, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc still has a controversial image. Its flamboyant green flavor profile—put your nose over the glass and you’ll recognize it immediately—bursts out of the glass and has both fans and detractors.
Party wine
Fortunately, many milder Sauvs are also made in New Zealand. The somewhat harsher (or, as some describe it, ‘sour’) side that Sauvignons can have is pushed into the background by aromas and flavors of seductive exotic fruit. A spritz of lime, a little mango, a touch of passion fruit, a wedge of pineapple—it all ensures that the wine slips dangerously smoothly down your throat. You can easily drink them at a party or drinks gathering.
Screw them!
You drink most Sauvignon Blancs young and well chilled. These are wines that can hold their own. Perfect for summer drinks, or winter ones of course, for boat trips and lounging in the park. Remarkable and convenient: almost all NZ Sauvignons are sealed with a screw cap.
A grape on a world tour
Outside France and New Zealand, you can also find Sauvignon Blanc in Italy (Alto Adige), Chile, South Africa and California, among other places.
What do you eat with it?
With its lively acidity, Sauv is a perfect match for vegetable dishes. In fact, this white is a real vegetable hit. It’s heavenly with a goat cheese salad. Goat cheese in general. A Sancerre with Crottin de Chavignol is a true classic; the goat cheese comes from the same region. Eat aged crottin with a full, rich Sancerre, and young crottin with a green, sharp one. Success guaranteed! Besides goat cheese and vegetables, the wine pairs endlessly and with all kinds of foods: from fresh salads, shellfish and crustaceans to grilled fish. Throw a prawn on the grill, order sushi or bake a vegetable quiche. Because of its high freshness, Sauvignon is also a delicious fire extinguisher for spicy Asian food. And last but not least: the wine’s acidity cuts deliciously through a French fry! A wine that’s genuinely good with fries gets bonus points from me.
Serving you: three knockout wines, increasing in price.
Dourthe N° 1 Sauvignon Blanc, 2019, € 12.95
There are quite a few wine drinkers who often find Sauvignon a little too acidic. In that case, this Sauv from Bordeaux is an excellent choice. Made from 100% sauvignon blanc. Easy going, juicy, lightly aromatic, fresh as lime and pleasantly acidic. Perfect party wine! Très jolie and now on offer too (regular price € 12.95).
Twin Islands Sauvignon Blanc, 2019, € 11.95
Twin Island is a true ‘Kiwi Sauvignon’ from Marlborough: super exuberant, expressive and slightly tropical. Plenty of citrus and acidity with a bite (lime zest, grapefruit). If you’re a fan of the Marlborough style, this wine will make you very happy. The ‘zing’ in this Sauvignon is a perfect match for shellfish, crustaceans and white fish, especially when drizzled with a sauce based on citrus, garlic or fresh tomato. Or how about a spicy curry or a simple weekday pasta with smoked salmon and stir-fried green asparagus? It all goes!
Salentein Selection Sauvignon Blanc, 2019, € 14.95
Juicy baby! Fresh, juicy, lightly tropical—oh, how delicious! This Sauvignon Blanc from Argentina (yes, they know what to do with this super grape there too!) bursts out of the glass, green and exuberant on the one hand, tropical and soft on the other. Make a shrimp cocktail with grapefruit to go with it. A smoked chicken salad or a BLT. Risotto with shellfish. Or spiced spicy chicken from the wok. You get the point; Sauvignon Blancs aren’t just delicious wines to drink on their own, but also perfect wines to enjoy with food. Cheers!
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